I left last Thursday morning for my first solo drive in Mexico up to Magdalena (a town not to far north of here) to meet up with a handful of other people from Tucson who were driving down to Kino Bay. We were going to spend a couple days camping with some Seri Herbalists and learning from and about their medicine chest- the plants scattered about on the dry landscape next to the Sea of Cortez. The land we camped on was a few miles from the sea, in view of "Isla Tiburon," the largest Island in the Sea of Cortez- which was a mass of rock that turned beautiful colors in the dawn sun. The women we predominately spent time with were Luisa, and her mother Ortensia.
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| Looking across at Isla Tiburon |
The Seris were a semi nomadic hunter-gatherer group of people who have lived in this particular area in and around the Sea of Cortez for a long time, and who have retained more of their knowledge and culture than other indigenous groups in Mexico. The land supposedly only receives about 5 inches of rainfall a year, but the influence of the ocean moisture was causing many plants to bloom. Some of the plants growing there I knew, others I was learning for the first time, and had to juggle hearing 4 different names spoken for them: Seri, Spanish (the common language between those of us visiting, and the Seris), English, and the Latin name. Phew! We harvested twigs off of the Elephant tree- Torote Prieto- Bursera Laxiflora- to make tinctures.


After a few fascinating days wandering and looking at plants, sitting around looking at herbs with the women, sampling barrel cactus, making salve, and going to bed and waking up early, we all headed back north and stopped in Imuris to meet Dona Olga, and older but very lively and spry herbalist who has traversed a wide radius in her burro cart harvesting medicine. She sat us down in her house- that mostly had no walls, was surrounded by little gardens in both the back and front yard and a lovely warm breeze blowing through, and fed us lemongrass-cinnamon tea and lunch. After touring her garden we sat in front of a table laden with plastic baggies full of different types and combinations of roots and leaves and flowers and tiny miniature sea creatures, and asked her questions. Her eyes sparkled and she listened intently as someone would ask about a certain herb on the table or an ailment they were trying to cure. She would lapse into story in her answers, and at one point talked about climbing in a tree 9 months pregnant to harvest something when she almost reached for a very large snake, instead of a branch... and other stories.

From there, we headed onto Tucson. I'm really coming to appreciate Tucson. I spent a few months there years ago on my migration westward, so I don't know it well, but I did enjoy getting a dose of certain American subcultures that I am removed from in Mexico. I found the coffee-shop equivalent of one I enjoy now and then in Berkeley (and acquired a hand grinder so I can make good backcountry coffee). I had some fun and very successful thrift store shopping stops, so we now have more than four bowls and three spoons (visitor ready!).
I also got a more in-depth look at an organization I am deeply inspired by--
Native Seeds Search. Their mission is to conserve, distribute and document the adapted and diverse varieties of seed in this unique area of the great American Southwest, and Northern Mexico, and their means of getting seed and knowledge into the community are varied and inspiring. I went to the Conservation Center in Tucson for the first time, and picked up 2 pounds of corn (two different kinds), and 4 pounds of bean (some Teparies, and Cowpeas) and got a tour of the walk in fridge where hundreds of accessions are stored, and there is a walk in freezer with in that. And then, on my way home, and the suggestion of my friends, old seed school teachers and current directors, I stopped but the Conservation Farm, in Patagonia, AZ to pick up a little bit of Cover Crop.
I was going to buy some Buckwheat in Tucson, but it is all grown in colder places, even though it is a hot weather crop, so thought it would be better to get some more adapted to here. Not only did I leave with some buckwheat grown soley on Monsoon rains, but 7 or 8 other things that the farm manager carefully bagged up for me from huge trashcans in the barn, all the while sharing tidbits of helpful information. I became envious of having a freezer (we don't) when he opened his to show me why he now appreciates Tomato Horn worms. Frozen little pellets of protein packed chicken food!
Navigating my way successfully back to Banamichi, passing cottonwoods growing by the dry rivers that are now full green with spring leaves, I felt incredibly grateful for the wealth of interesting people and knowledge that I was able to come in contact with over this past 5 days or so. About 15 minutes away from home, I saw a truck parked on the side of the road next to the beehives I have always wondered about. Embolded by my success at speaking spanish on my own (without my trusty translater, speaker, and understander by my side) I turned around and went back to meet the beekeepers.
"Tengo una pregunta!" I asked, after greeting the two veiled men. "Venda la miel aqui en pueblo?"
"Si!" He answered enthusiastically.
What followed was a short conversations of him asking where I could be found (eh... a milpa in Banamichi? Or the hotel! they know us) and telling me where the honey could be found (a ranchita a few hundred meters up the road I'd just driven down). I drove away smiling, at navigating a conversation successfully, and finding local honey.
When I came home I noticed the garden had grown. The arugula that has gotten munched by both the mule (who jumped the canal to get it) and the mochomos (the leaf cutter ants who have been carrying away the fava plants before my eyes) has bounced back and is ready to be harvested for salad. Hurrah!
And, while I'd been off on learning adventures, Stevan had been having his own here. He plowed and harrowed about an acre of field with the neighbors mules, and it sounds like not a lot of help or very clear instruction from them. And nearly finished the vault. Which as I sit here, is now is completely closed in. Also, as I sit here writing this under the stars on the upper patio at the hotel (which is our internet spot), it is warm at 9:30 pm, and smells like blooming citrus. Spring is here.